I can’t keep away from Bali! The fact that it’s only about a 2-hour flight from where I live makes it pretty irresistible. My husband and I recently booked tickets on a Saturday and were on the plane early next morning.
One particular day was exceptional because there were three special days in one… 1) Kajeng Keliwon 2) Purnama (full moon) and 3) Anggara Kasih (a good day for love)
Kajeng Keliwon is a favored day for temple ceremonies and other religious ceremonies. However, it is a day when evil spirits might be lurking about, so offerings are given to protect people and their families from any harm.
My friend (and guide/driver), Leroy, picked me up bright and early and we headed to Tirtha Empul (a holy water temple fed by a big natural spring). It is in a region northeast of Ubud called Gianyar, known for being thickly religious. There were hundreds of people there waiting outside the temple walls for entry, where once inside the walls, they stepped into the pools and lined up until they could bathe their heads in the water spouts of fresh spring water and become purified. This was done this particular day because of the combination of aforementioned events that made this day particularly auspicious.
The air at the temple was festive. Families brought picnics to eat. Everyone brought abundant offerings to leave in the temple and people prayed at the adjacent temple. Incense burned, blessings were bestowed upon the Balinese by priests and others, and there was a riot of color everywhere.
When we left, Leroy took me shopping for traditional Balinese clothes for my husband and I to wear to that evening to Besakih (the mother temple) at the foot of the volcano, Mt Agung, the most sacred mountain in Bali. We would be going to the most sacred place in all of Bali where people went to pray and give offerings in honor of the full moon - Purnama.
Later that evening Leroy’s family picked us up at our hotel. They were all dressed for the temple. We drove 1.5 hours to Besakih, and when we arrived the sky was dark and the full moon shone from high above and gave us light to find our way up the stairs to various temples within the large mother temple. We participated in a few rounds of prayers (involving holy water, rice and flowers) at some of these temples. I love seeing the Balinese devoting themselves entirely to these beautiful religious ceremonies and prayers. We enjoyed the serene ambience in this most sacred of places and returned to Ubud fulfilled and peaceful.
On my last morning in Bali, Leroy took me to his home village where two ceremonies were to take place. The first is Matalubulanan (3-months-old-ceremony) which is similar to a Christening. However, many young children who had not yet participated in this ceremony were included along with babies. Children wrapped in gold cloth and wearing ornate hair pieces knelt in rows on the ground, along with mothers holding babies. Other adults sat in the back on chairs, or on the ground where there was space to kneel. This ceremony was held in a family compound in the village and the decorations were very ornate and beautiful. I wish I’d had my video camera with me to capture the sounds… the priest was chanting, the audience was singing, children were chatting… it was such a festive atmosphere and an absolute sensory feast.
The children were blessed many times in many ways and participated in receiving these blessing from a variety of ways, including holy water, coconuts and incense. There was much praying as well. This ceremony was absolutely beautiful and meaningful, and I felt so privileged to be witness to it.
Immediately following that ceremony, the villagers moved to a different house for a tooth-filing ceremony, an important event that only happens every 3-5 years in this particular village. It is very costly to hold a tooth-filing ceremony. The cost in decorations and food rivals that of a wedding, so villagers combine forces to hold the event for any number of participants. This is such a significant ceremony in one’s life, that if someone dies before having their teeth filed, it will be done on that person before cremation, to ensure a peaceful transition to the next life. This day there were 28 youth between the ages of 14-21 who were to have their teeth filed. They, too, were wrapped in gold cloth. There were musicians present, plenty of friends and family members, and glorious decorations.
Canine teeth represent animal-like behaviors and evils, and filing those teeth, along with the four upper teeth between the canines, symbolically removes those earthly evils from a person. After a person has his or her teeth filed, he or she spits out the saliva & filings into a young coconut, which is then buried in the family garden, which signifies burial of those evil characteristics.
The other interesting thing I did in Bali was visit the Green School. What an inspiring place! This school was the vision of John Hardy and his wife, Cynthia, who have lived in Bali for decades and were disenchanted with the available educational opportunities for their children. Green School is focused on educating children in a holistic environment with a global vision. The structures are built entirely of bamboo and are architecturally stunning and cutting-edge. Every classroom has its own garden for the children to care for. Most of the food consumed at school is organically grown on site. The school is self-sustainable. The toilets are all compost-style. The environment is beautiful and nurturing. The Ayung River runs along the edge of the school. It is worthwhile to visit the school and take a tour (check website for tour times and book an appointment). You will be inspired!
I spent a night at Green Camp (on Green School's property). I am taking a group of teens there in the fall so I wanted to experience a night in the camp so I can better prepare everyone. The camp consists of 12 yurts, gardens, a campfire, and a camp kitchen. Programs include Balinese culture, adventure (white-water rafting, biking, hiking), service, and much more. I am so impressed by the entire campus, vision, mission, everything about it!
On every trip to Bali I love to explore and make new discoveries. Here are some of my latest recommendations:
STAY:
The Purist Villas – the smallest boutique hotel in Ubud, consisting of only 7 villas, each with a private pool. We stayed one night in the Bamboo Villa. Next night we were transferred to Hill Villa (because of availability). Both are nice, but we prefer Hill Villa. It is a 2-level Timor house which was moved to and reconstructed in Bali. A lovely place to chill out. Only complaint is the only bathroom is downstairs and the master bedroom is upstairs. But I’d still stay there again. There’s a second bedroom downstairs, sitting area, nice little pool and bale outside for relaxing. The meals are delicious, beautifully presented, and delivered to your villa where you can dine al fresco. Really lovely place and very good butler service. They have a couple of mountain bikes which we took for a ride through nearby rice fields. Perfect way to travel through Bali.
http://www.thepuristvillas.com/
Green Camp – You can participate in family weekends or enroll your child(ren) for camp fun during your visit to Bali.
Bridges – Great location in Ubud above the Campuhan River. The food is absolutely delicious.
For those with a sweet tooth… the following dessert are a must!
Chocolate Fondant - Rich chocolate fondant (basically a chocolate lava cake) topped with comfit orange, and served aside a light cointreau cream mousse and vanilla gelato.
Cinnamon Creme Brulee - Oven baked cinnamon infused creme brulee accompanied by soft lime butter stewed apples and finished with vanilla bean tuile.
Jalan Campuhan (near Antonio Blanco Museum), Tel (62) 361 970095 (make a reservation)
Sari Organic – Tucked up in the rice fields. It’s hard for me to even explain where to find it, but ask a local driver and they can point you in the direction to go (it’s at Subak Sok Wayah in Ubud). Off the main road in Ubud you walk up a hill, then along a path through the rice fields for about 15 minutes until you come across this very casual organic restaurant. The food is simple and healthy, and the smoothies are colorful and yummy. It is a nice environment to enjoy a relaxed lunch.
Reserve a table overlooking the rice paddies (62) 361 972087
Above all, contact Leroy if you want an excellent guide and driver. He will show you the side of Bali most tourists don’t see. (62) 361 7462298 or (62) 8123904631 (mobile), email: leroykp@yahoo.com, website: http://www.Bali-tour-Leroy.com Tell him I sent you!